IN PRAISE OF MUSHROOMS

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IN PRAISE OF MUSHROOMS

For many years, the only commercial mushroom grown in the United States was the round-capped button mushroom. Today exotic mushrooms are easily accessible, and their natural savory flavors and textures lend themselves to a wide variety of cuisines and cooking styles.I love the availability of mushrooms in their dried form too, which are best reconstituted in hot water. (Chef’s Tip: Save the infused water, after straining it, for use in sauces and soups!) Although each mushroom possesses its own unique flavor, there are some ingredients that create effective flavor matches across the mushroom spectrum. Mushrooms universally pair well with the onion family, especially garlic and shallot, and benefit from the addition of a touch of piquancy as citrus juice or vinegar. A simple sauté with butter, garlic, and salt is enough to prepare any variety for addition to pasta, stir-fried vegetables, Asian noodle dishes or to strew atop grilled meats or fish.

Ingredients

• SEE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW

Instructions

WHEN BUYING:

1. For fresh mushrooms, choose plump, clean ones that look fresh, without age spots or signs of wrinkling. Discard any that appear slimy. To clean mushrooms, do so just before using without water or soaking. Using a clean, dry kitchen towel or paper towel, gently brush away any dirt from the cap of the mushrooms. If using only the mushroom caps, reserve the stems for making stocks or soups, to infuse great flavor.

STORE MUSHROOMS:

1. In a plastic bag, left open, with a damp paper towel inside, or in a glass bowl, covered with a damp paper towel. Dried mushrooms will keep indefinitely well-sealed in a bag, in a cool, dark, dry place.

A LESSON IN MUSHROOMS:

1. CEPES: Also known as porcini, cepes have a stout stem and a spongy surface. Imported from France or Italy during the summer and fall, they are expensive but considered to be one of the finest wild mushrooms.
2. CHANTERELLES: Chanterelles are gold to yellow-orange in color, are shaped like trumpets, and have large frilly caps. Chanterelles are gathered wild in the Pacific Northwest, and some are imported from Europe.
3. CREMINI: Also called Italian brown or brown mushrooms, full-grown cremini are marketed as portabellas.
4. ENOKI: Native to Japan, enoki mushrooms have small caps on a long, thin trailing stem. They are creamy white and have a mild, sweet taste. Try them in salads or soups.
5. MORELS: Intense, with an earthy flavor, these mushrooms are often incredibly expensive since they grow wild, but they are available in the dried form and delicious when used in sauces and stews.
6. PORTABELLAS: Meaty-flavored with black gills and delicious when grilled or roasted. A great substitute for vegetarians who crave a steak!
7. SHIITAKE: Chewy and textural and full of rich flavor. Try stir-frying them with Asian flavors for a meaty side dish or roasting them for a delicious topping to a seared steak.

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